How it Works | Installation & Maintenance

To understand the true benefits of Ecobead we really need to understand the design of the sash window and why sash windows rattle.

Sash windows are actually designed to have a 3mm gap between sash and frame to allow the sash to move up and down without friction preventing smooth travel. While the gap is therefore necessary, on a window that is over painted, twisted, and warped the tolerance might be more like 5mm in places to allow passage of the sash at “sticky points”. These required tolerances amount to a gap in your window that actually equates to leaving the lower sash open by up to 2cms all the time! That is a significant amount of air travelling in and out of your home. By installing Ecobead on the window these gaps will be closed with an insulated brush seal, whilst not affecting the ability of the sash to open and close smoothly. In fact, there will be a noticeable improvement in the movement as the brush reduces friction.

It is well known in the trade that the average sash window draught proofing installation will improve the energy efficiency of your home, and draught proofing is the most commonly requested service of the professional sash window repairer.

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How sash window draught proofing in installed

Ecobead draught proofing system is simply a series of brush piles that entirely seal the perimeter of the sash window. The process involves taking off the existing stop / staff and parting beads and replacing them with Ecobead Stop / Staff and parting beads. It is very important to emphasize the significance of draught proofing the parting bead. This is the trim of timber that separates both sashes and often gets overlooked when draught sealing the sash window. It is imperative that the sash window is entirely sealed, even a small gap can make a massive reduction in the performance, let alone 3mm, the whole length of the box itself, which is what will happen if the parting bead is not draught proofed. Here’s a close up of the parting bead and draught seal.

Step by Step Instructions:

  1. Remove the existing staff or stop beads. Start by running a knife around the edge of the beading to cut through the paint. Then use a flat pry bar or chisel to lever the stop bead off the frame. Top tip! Start in the middle and then work out towards the ends, the bead is more flexible in the middle.
  2. Once the Stop Beads have been removed you can then start to remove the bottom sash.
  3. Remove the existing parting beads. Use your knife around as much as the parting bead as possible to loosen any paint, then use the chisel or flat pry bar to lever the bead out of groove of the frame. Do this all the way around the frame making sure you remove the parting bead at the top of the sash also. Now it’s time to measure up. TOP TIP! Measure twice, cut once.
  4. Start with the top parting bead. Measure horizontally between the frame and add a few mm to this as you want the bead to go all the way across the head of the window.
  5. It is recommended to pre-drill your holes in the beads before nailing. Then fix the parting bead in position and nail in (40mm nails recommended).
  6. Next, measure up for the side parting beads. Measure from the sill up to the parting bead you have just installed in step 4 above.
  7. Cut your pieces for the left and right side then cut each in half at the halfway point. Make a pencil mark at the halfway point and cut. Top tip! Apply a small amount of superglue to the top and the bottom between the plastic and the brush of each parting bead to stop the pile moving.
  8. Pre dill holes in the parting bead and nail into place.
  9. On the bottom half of the window install the operating bead so that the pile faces inwards. On the top half of the window switch the bead over so that the pile faces outwards. This will cushion the sashes and eliminate the gaps.
  10. Reinstall the bottom sash.
  11. Now measure up for your stop / staff beads.
  12. Install the beads. Push them to the bottom sash so that they close the gap but are not too tight, You want the gap filled but still be able to move the window up and down. As previously done with your parting beads, pre-drill your holes and nail into place.

How to maintain your sash windows after draught proofing.

Cleaning draught seals regularly with warm soapy water will increase the lifespan considerably. It will stop the process of seals from becoming brittle and perish. DO NOT use any chemical cleaner, because harmful chemicals may attack the plastic, and break it down –Use a cloth soaked in warm soapy water, squeezing out any excess water, then wipe with a clean and dry cloth to remove any remaining water. In harsh or coastal environments, it is recommended that Ecobead is cleaned more regularly to prevent salt build-up, settling on the seals and leading to loss of performance.

All of our products are manufactured using high quality materials. The finishes have been tested and meet our standards for general wear and tear. Seals in bathrooms and kitchens may be subject to a damper and more humid atmosphere, and may need more regular maintenance than living rooms. Never use a solvent spray such as WD40 to remove in-ground dirt, because this can affect the performance of the seal and / or the paintwork on the window.

Do not paint the pile carrier under any circumstances. We have experienced decorators that are unaware of the implications of painting the seals.

Our Guarantee to You

Our 5 year Ecobead GUARANTEE covers product failure due to manufacturing defects, under normal usage for a period of 5 years from the date of purchase.

This guarantee excludes any products that have been incorrectly installed, maintained, or operated in a way that constitutes misuse and abuse, negligence, accidental damage or general wear and tear. Products must not be modified from their original supplied state. Failure to follow these instructions may invalidate your guarantee.

Articles

The history of sash windows
COP26 and Draught Proofing
Sash Window Balance Systems

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